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When curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect familiar Michelin-starred establishments. But, nestled high among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu found in a far-flung corner of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

This compact Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. This recognition has made the owners completely surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks a family member, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their small restaurant securing such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Simplicity

This little venue, which used to be a basic cafe before its change into a popular spot, has kept much of its former charm. It seats just over 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking show, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. When the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley go inside before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is often enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet flavour.

Surpassing the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is located well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The philosophy is supported by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “insist to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overthinking, and to show what is possible if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Hard Work

In contrast to most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not work at elite restaurants. “I feel truly happy of our shop and our mum,” adds her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its popularity is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is handmade; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. All of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he shares.

A Achievement for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is likely to resonate outside its own premises. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the greater significance of this culinary triumph.